Last week I took a trip to Andorra, which is a small country in between France and Spain. Why Andorra you ask? Well, other than the fact that it’s beautiful, I’ve always had a fascination with microcountries, that is, very small but completely sovereign nations, like Andorra or Monaco or San Marino. They shouldn’t exist, yet they do, which is a feat of absurdity that even Douglas Adams might find appealing. It didn’t hurt that Intrepid Travel, on which I had a travel credit left over from the pandemic, had a relatively inexpensive “adventure tour” that sounded right up my alley: mountain biking, whitewater rafting, hiking. The whole trip was organized around a central hotel, which ended up being the Hotel Roc du Sant Miquel, a chraming inn owned by a couple, a British man named Nick and an Catalonian woman named Nuria. We had communal breakfasts, communal dinners, sandwiches made for us while we went out hiking. The weather was phenomenal and, not to bury the lead, I had a great time. I’ll try to sprinkle in some little facts about Andorra and what I learned on my trip along the way, but for now, let’s get to:
Day 0: Navigating Travel, Toulouse, and the first night at the hotel
Thoughts about my brief stint in Toulouse: It's been beautiful weather, it's very Oakland-esque here, but the plant life is much more Buffalo or so. Apparently it is known for its aerospace industry, I saw a plane and lots of businesses. I ended up in a retail district and wandered into mall and a gigantic Menards-style department store. Everything here is reasonably priced, less New York and more Austin-style. I'm sitting on a deck here at the hotel and listening to three people who are on a tour, the tour guide is telling me abuot how he lived in Austin for 30 years and the other two are from California. There's something very surreal about that. But then there are little differences, too: for example the table I'm sitting at on the deck has an ashtray on it and there are obvious remanants of someone's cigarette, and actually just as I write this, a guy came out and sat not too far from me and lit up a cigarette. You know, the smell doesn't bother me as much I remember it bothering me in the old days. Not sayin we shold bring back smoking but it looks cooler when French people do it. I'm really pleased with myself and how easy it was to slip back into my French. I had no trouble with the woman at the front desk, or the guy last night, even though I'm pretty sure they don't speak English at all really. Decathlon was closed, though. The hotel room is very small but very pleasant and well-appointed. As I always say, it's nice to go places and realize that I have it just as good at home. Certainly I could make a life here but I don't feel any significant pull or anything.
The first night in the hotel, called Le Roc du Sant Miquel, it rained hard. I was so tired that it felt a bit disorienting and I started to wonder what I had gotten myself into. I often find in situations like this that I start slow; I have to give myself time to warm up to situations and people and not put too much stock in how I feel the first day. At least as I’ve gotten older I’ve gotten more aware of this.
Day 1 - Mountain Biking and Ropes Course
After getting through all the travel and spending a night in Toulouse, which was fine but uneventful, the first day in Soldeu, Andorra, was slated for some mountain biking and “zip lines” (which ended up being more like what I think of as ropes courses, but I digress). The mountain biking was relatively straightforward and not too hard, except that we were at 7000 ft elevation, so I was a bit out of breath. But the ropes course was really challenging. I’m not terrified of heights but definitely I’m not a huge fan either, and these weren’t that high but they were high enough to hurt. A lot of the course required you to be pretty active, like walking across tightropes and swinging across gaps on a rope. But the one that got me was a set of barrels that you had to wiggle through on your back. The edge of the barrel kept getting caught on my harness and I got stuck, but I eventually made it through! It was the first day of “the sandwiches”: Nuria, the inn owner, made us sandwiches every day on the trip out of nice crusty French baguettes, tomatoes, meat and mayo and butter, and they were delicious. By the time we got back everyone was wiped out, and dinner was made for us at the inn. A great first day and a great start.
The one hiccup I had today: I went up into town today to get some cash, because they mentioned I might need it for biking and for the buses. But the machine ate my card! First time that's ever happened to me in all my travels; even in Ukraine I had no problem. I assume it was some kind of fraud prevention thing. As always, I'm reminded of the tentative position that immigrants or tourists find themselves in when they visit the United States. I think about that time that I ended up in Dallas when they canceled the second leg of my trip home, and there was zero information available about what I was supposed to do. I got through that situation by booking a hotel last minute and walking to it, but how would that have gone if I didn't speak English and didn't know what the heck was going on? It would have been a bit of a disaster.
Day 2: Hiking
Idyllic. Pastoral. It's interesting when specific experiences really line up with what you're expecting. We've all seen the movies where the character wanders the (usually French, in my imagination) countryside, a bell off a cow ringing in the distance, while a stream burbles down through a perfectly green valley, while stone buildings dot the landscape. So, magine my surprise when it turned out that is exactly what it looks like and felt like. I laid on the hillside and listened to both the close and far sound of the streams. What's interesting too is the juxtaposition of the very modern world of people bustling about with this very rural vision of a specific time and place. The literal juxtaposition, physically. I won't say it is cleansing; it reminded me of the need for community, oddly. But it's interesting that these things are real. They feel almost more real than real. Lots of thoughts bubbling around in the ol' brain, but precious few of them are coalescing into anything useful. One that is pretty consistent, though, is that physical activity is good. It makes me feel good and powerful and centered and it erases a lot of my anxiety. It's a good way for me to spend my precious time on this earth. Also, community is very important, and I can't get too picky about the kind of community. We did about 6.5 miles up through the Pyrenees. We visited a lake and got near a peak and got some views of the surrounding mountains, and climbed about 2000 feet up to about 8100 feet. It was a very fun if exhausting hike. I would like to be in better shape to be sure. There was a couple in their late 30s and they added on extra hiking at the end. I don't think they're even tired. :) Also we got to play my Unlock escape room card game! It was a mixed bag as a game but it was so fun to get to play!
Even after our 7 mile hike up into the mountains, I got off my butt and went out and ran 4.5 miles down to the end of the payment at the Valle d'Incles. And it wasn't even that bad! I had to walk the uphill parts, but I had a great time and felt alive. It makes me feel physical and masculine and sexual and alive. I have to get back into doing physical stuff. Having physical adventures! That's the way.
This was our first day to be on our own for dinner and I ended up with the couple, Jessie and Chris, and after a few false starts we hit up the only restaurant we could find, a self-professed “snack bar” where I got a paella-based dish (paella is Catalan for “pan”) which ended up being what your roommate made for himself for dinner when he got drunk; Rice-a-Roni style noodles in a pan with chopped up ham and sausage bits. It…wasn’t bad? But wasn’t good.
Day 3: White Water Rafting
Today was whitewater rafting. We took a van with Nuria about 2 and a half hours to Sort, Spain. The rafting itself was really great. One of the other participants Shelley fell out of the boat and screamed bloody murder. Fear is such an interesting thing. We were in Spain, so I guess I can cross that one off my list. I had a 3 euro glass of white wine at a hotel with a beautiful blue pool in a green lawn. The rafting guide was named "Ot" and he was very skilled. I still felt fear from my last whitewater rafting experience, but I made it through. We went to a bridge where you could jump off into deep water and swim over to a shallow part - and I did it! It wasn't even that scary in the end. But boy it sure is when you are up there looking down at the water.
I really need to get back to Sacramento and do more whitewater rafting.
Dinner tonight was rewarding, the fact that I was able to speak French with the restaurant proprietor and kind of save the day for the group. His whole demeanor changed when I spoke French and I was able to get us seated despite the fact that they weren't technically open yet. What a very French man; frosty but in the end excellent service and very kind. And some tasty fried squid. It’s been great how well my French came back; I can tell it’s rusty but to the rest of the group I sounded native. :)
Day 4: Via Ferrata and Spa
Day 4 was supposed to be our “day off”, but of course nobody really wanted to take a day off. Our hosts recommended a friend of theirs, Carlos, who could take us on a “Via Ferrata”, which literally means “By Iron”, but in this case meant vertical rock climbing using preinstalled iron ladder rungs, sunk into the rock. You are clipped in (barely) to a lead attached with some bungee cord in case you fall, but still, it’s scary AF. We were apparently on “level 3” (out of 7) of via ferrata, still suitable for families. I actually had no problem with the vertical climbing bit, that just felt like being on a ladder, but when we switched to lateral travel, I got really scared that my footholds wouldn’t hold me or my shoes didn’t have enough traction, and it got pretty scary. At one point you had to basically go hand over foot across onto a sort of rope bridge and that almost broke my brain. But I got it done.
The afternoon was a lot more relaxing: we went to this place called the Caldea Spa, the most well-known 4-or-5-star spa in Andorra, and it was amazing. Huge beautiful pools of water in a modern stainless steel arrangement, both inside and out, complete with cold showers and aromatherapy and lots of bubbles. My only complaint was that the hot water wasn’t, by and large, hot enough. But it was a great way to wind down and relax, and it gave me lots of good memories.
Then in the evening we all agreed we wanted to explore the capital, so we had some ice cream, and then went to dinner at a cheesy-looking place called The Excalibur Tavern (or something like that) that turned out to actually have really great food. Helen cheesily pulled the sword out of the stone like a good tourist. Our server was Australian; a lot of folks here aren’t from here of course, especially those that work the tourist trade. By the time we got home everyone was exhausted. A great day all around.
Day 5: Mountain Biking, Part 2
Today was just straight up mountain biking, pure and simple. With all the optional trips added in we ended up doing about 20 miles across the Andorran countryside. At one point we decamped and had lunch along a lake which was half in Andorra and half in France. It got me thinking, not for the first time, about how silly borders are. The idea of an invisible line in this idyllic countryside in the middle of nowhere, and on one side cigarettes are $13 and on the other side they’re $3, just because people said so.
It’s really great to be good at things. I was the best cyclist in the group, and that made me proud. And it’s fun to bike downhill across these rocks through beautiful landscapes.
Day 6: Hiking, Part 2
In the evening, we finished up the third round of Dark Tomb, this little DnD-game-in-a-tin that we’ve been playing all week. One of the really great parts about the trip was the feeling of being in a community, something I miss so much here in Oakland; just a bunch of adults doing fun stuff together like playing a board game. Dark Tomb isn’t perfect but it’s a great way to just get some adults together playing something fun; it’s a bit silly as a game but the role playing part of it is perfect for how light it is, and easy to carry. We had a few lemon shandies and a little chocolate and it was very nourishing and social and fun.
The Catalonian way of drinking wine is to use this decanter that never touches your lips, you just cast a stream of wine into your mouth!
Recap, Tolouse, Lessons Learned
Toulouse was nice; I had almost a full day to wander around. I ended up eating lunch with Alexa at an Indian restaurant where the food was incredibly spicy, then I went to the MC Escher museum and then walked the full 4 miles to the airport along the river, which was beautiful. By the time I got to the airport I was exhausted and must have looked like a homeless person.
So a few things about this trip: first of all, I’m down for more Intrepid Travel tours if they are at all like this one. There were a few great things about this trip: it was great to be active every single day, first of all, but secondly being in community with a bunch of other cool adults was just so much fun. So I’m thinking about trips to Morocco or other spots. I’m incredibly happy that I took the trip and it was really inspiring.